Archive | May, 2017

For my Phoenix Comicon panel: HP House Scarves Pattern

26 May

I know what you’re thinking – yeah, that’s all we need, yet another pattern. Aren’t there a billion of them already? Yes, yes there are, and they all conflict.

Most long-time Potter crafters consider Lauren Kent’s 2003/2004 patterns to be the definitive pattern, but Atypically Knit has been offline for a very long time. The patterns themselves survive on the Leaky Cauldron site, but not the extensive notes before and after the patterns, which include width & length measurements, as well as about how wide the stripes should be, which are important if you’re using a different yarn or needle size – and since the yarn she used is now discontinued, we all are! Her Ravelry page mentions that they’re in the book Charmed Knits, but I’ve never read it, so I don’t know how thorough they are in there.

And fortunately she did list those sizes, because my gauge is a lot different than hers – so my row count is different as well. If you’re doing a scarf for the first movie and your stripe is just over 3″ but your number of rows are different than what’s listed here, make a note of it and change colors!

(I’m also just noticing that this is only the third post I’ve done since the last Phoenix Comicon – I didn’t blog at all about Keen Halloween! I guess since I post a lot on Facebook, I just forget about this place, lol)

However, this actually IS a brand-new pattern. I found an HP bookmark that was knit using the double-sided knit technique, and I liked it so much that I went in search of a pattern for a full-sized double-sided scarf. There were none! Just the regular knit in the round tubes.

I also decided that it was way past time that the stripe patterns for both versions should be in the same place. Right?

Getting the right colors is a huge job as well. Using the lists from several different websites plus all the experimentation I’ve done myself over the years, I know have a fairly comprehensive list. The scarf colors in the first two movies are much brighter and cheerier than in all the clothes starting with PoA, which makes sense because the mood of the whole series takes a turn for the dark at that point. Or “moody” as Kent put it, which is also fitting.

Gryffindor:
(SS/CoS) Main color (MC): Red Heart Classic Cardinal #917,
Secondary color (SC): Red Heart Classic Golden Yellow #1270
(PoA+) MC: Red Heart Super Saver Burgundy #376, SC: Red Heart SS Gold #321

Ravenclaw: (all the rest of the yarns are RH Super Saver)
– Book- MC: Blue #886, SC: Pumpkin #254
– Movie- (SS/CoA) MC: Soft Navy #387, SC: Light Gray #41
(PoA+) MC: Windsor Blue #380, SC: Light Gray #41

Hufflepuff:
(SS/CoS) MC: Bright Yellow #324, SC: Black #312
(PoA+) MC: Gold #321, SC: Black #312

Slytherin:
(SS/CoS) MC: Paddy Green #368 , SC: Light Gray #41
(PoA+) MC: Hunter Green #389, SC: Light Gray #41

Ilvermorny
MC: Blue #886, SC: Burgundy #376

 

 

If you look around at cosplay pics & shops, people mostly use the PoA colors no matter which stripe pattern. It’s what we spent most of the movies looking at, and there are fans out there crafting that weren’t alive when there were no movies at all, just color illustrations of the House crests. It’s your costume/cosplay, you pick what you like!

Before we get to the actual patterns, here are the measurements:
SS/CoA – about 65-70″ long and about 7-8″ wide
Stripes a bit more than 3″ long

PoA+ Scarf should be about 9″ wide and possibly 85″ long
No measurements on the width of the stripes, so I just stuck with the number of rows. There are only three, and it doesn’t appear to make much of a difference in my example.

Here’s my gauge. I usually suggest doing a swatch in the stitch pattern at least 10 sts by 10 rows, just to see how close yours matches up. You don’t necessarily have to make any pattern adjustments right away, it’s just something to be aware of as you go.

Three (visible on one side) sts per inch
Four (visible) rows per inch

That “visible” thing will make sense later, trust me. 😉

And now, we knit!

 

Wizarding World School Scarf Patterns

 

Needed:

Worsted weight yarn in two colors of your choice; the main color (MC) and the secondary color (SC)
Knitting needles, size 8 (5.00 mm)
Yarn needle for weaving in ends.

Abreviations:
St(s) = stitch(es)
Sl st = slip stitch
Sl st Purl-wise = Insert needle into st as if to purl; without yarning over, move the st from the left needle to the right

Original Movie Design Color Blocks

Used in the movies “Sorcerer’s Stone” and “Chamber of Secrets”

Cast on 48 sts with MC

Row 1: Knit 1, *knit 1, sl st purl-wise*, repeat to the last st in row, knit 1.
Row 2: Sl st, *knit 1, sl st purl-wise*, repeat to the last st in row, knit 1.

Repeat Row 2 for a total of 26 rows (13 “rounds”)

You are basically knitting half the stitches in the row on one pass, then turning the work and knitting the stitches that you slipped before. Two rows equals one “round”.  Always change colors on the side that your cast-on “tail” is at (or use a stitch marker) so that your stripes are even.

I’m not good at counting rows as I go. I own row counters, but I forget to change the numbers and so I end up having to count them on the work anyway. In double-sided knitting, you’ll be able to see half the number of rows on each side. So, if you’ve knit 26 rows, you be able to look at either side, and when you count the rows, you’ll see 13. That’s why I refer to them as rounds … you’re still knitting a tube, but one with nice, defined sl st edges, and ends that you don’t have to sew shut. No need to worry about twisting the scarf as you’re doing the finishing!

Row 27: Change to SC. Continue to repeat Row 2, changing colors every 26 rows/13 rounds, until you have 19 stripes; 10 MC and 9 SC, beginning and ending with MC. Bind off.

Finishing: Weave in yarn ends. For fringe, you’ll have eleven tassels: six MC and five SC, again with MC fringe on both edges.
Tassel: Take 7 pieces of yarn and while holding them all together, fold them in half . Push the crochet hook through both thicknesses of scarf in the first row of knitting at one end, loop the folded ends of the yarn around the hook, and pull the yarn loops halfway through. Using the hook or your fingers, pull the cut yarn ends through the loop end, then tighten the tassel. I find it’s easier to do the middle SC tassel first, then the MC end tassels, and eye the rest.
After attaching all the tassels, lay end of scarf flat, and trim the edges of the fringe so it is even.

And that’s it! Now you’re showing your true colors!

OK, and now for the other stripe pattern.

 

Trapped Bar Stripe Design Pattern

Used in the rest of the Harry Potter movies starting with “Prisoner of Azkaban”

Cast on 56 sts with MC

Row 1: Knit 1, *knit 1, sl st purl-wise*, repeat to the last st in row, knit 1.
Row 2: Sl st, *knit 1, sl st purl-wise*, repeat to the last st in row, knit 1.

Repeat Row 2 for a total of 50 rows/25 “rounds” (until you can count 25 rows on a side)

[for a more complete explanation of the knitting, see first scarf instructions]

Change to SC. Follow this striping pattern:
–  6 rows/ 3 rounds of SC
–  10 rows / 5 rounds of MC
–  6 rows/ 3 rounds of SC

Change back to MC, knit another 25 rounds. Repeat stripes for a total of 14 trapped bars. Bind off.

Finishing: Weave in all ends. Add fringe.
cut approximately 120 8″ pieces of MC yarn. Take 3 pieces of yarn and while holding them all together, fold them in half . Push the crochet hook through both thicknesses of scarf in the first row of knitting at one end, loop the folded ends of the yarn around the hook, and pull the yarn loops halfway through. Using the hook or your fingers, pull the cut yarn ends through the loop end, then tighten the tassel. Place one every two stitches across the both ends of the scarf.
After attaching all the tassels, lay end of scarf flat, and trim the edges of the fringe so it is even.

 

There you go! I’m showing scarf swatches at the convention panel; I’ll upload pictures for the rest of you when I get the scarves finished.

 

 

%d bloggers like this: