Witch hat – just in time for Halloween!

witch hat picture
How to hide the fact that you look terrible without makeup. But also don’t feel like putting on makeup.

Look at that! I play a lot of casual mobile games, and the ones with cute witch girls are always wearing hats where the peak bends down. I wanted one! I thought that surely a pattern must exist by now … but no. So, it was up to me!

I knew I wanted to make it top-down, so that it’s easier to adjust for size, like my Pokeball Santa Hat. I also like to work in a spiral, which avoids a seam anywhere. I’ve followed many other designer’s patterns that had bends and curves, so I thought, hey, I can do this. The annoying thing about designing patterns is the sheer amount of ripping out involved. Soooooo much ripping out. But once you get a finished product, it’s so very satisfying to think “I did that!”

I actually made it last year, but the cousin that was testing it for me passed away from the cancer she was fighting, and it was too sad to look at it. When I realized it was September again, I decided that I couldn’t let all her work go to waste. I also thought about something a friend said; she considers knitting & crocheting like witchcraft. “You wave sticks around, and suddenly a string becomes a sweater!”

The hat in the picture above has handfuls of stiff tulle stuffed up in the peak to keep it’s shape. It’s far more lightweight than polyfill, and doesn’t weigh the had down and pull it off your head while you wear it. I had some thin armature wire left over from making some dragons (patterns by Crafty Intentions available on Ravelry), so I crocheted that into the brim. You can also get hat wire online; I couldn’t find it at any stores locally pre-quarentimes.

floppy witch hat picture
Totally floppy – no stuffing, no hat wire
black witch hat picture
Stick some decoration on! Crocheted hat band (instructions in pattern) and a plastic glittery Christmas floral spray.

Because of all the work, I’m making this a paid pattern on Etsy or Ravlery. But, I’ll be back soon with a free Amabie pattern!

If you have questions, feel free to comment or contact me on Etsy or Ravelry.

Brown Mailing Paper: Will It Print?


You may have to wrestle it a bit, but it was worth it for me.

I didn’t even know that Imgur Secret Santa was a thing, but I am so stoked to be a part of it!

At this point I’ve sold over 300 of these hats, so I’m pretty sick of looking at them, lol (that number doesn’t include the amount that I made for charity Browncoat events, which is how I got into the Cunning Hat biz in the first place), but I do like the money!

Starting a little late – so have a Pokeball Santa hat pattern!

Starting my holiday crafting a bit late; life is getting better, but it’s also BUSY. Suddenly I’m getting Jayne hat orders again after a break of a few years. Why? Who knows, lol. (this post has actually been in “Drafts” for a week & a half, lol. SO BUSY!)

I saw someone in a fiber arts group make a Santa Hat with a couple of appliques that make it look like a Pokeball. Pretty much all the comments were “I AM SO STEALING THAT IDEA!!!” Especially since I already know that the Lion Brand crocheted Santa hat pattern has a “crocheted pompom” – basically a ball. Score!

Unfortunately, and like always, there wasn’t one pattern that I liked. The Lion Brand hat is all single crochet, and the Red Heart pattern is double crochet; my favorite stitch for hats is half-double crochet. It’s more dense than dc, but works up faster than sc. It just looks the best, too, in my opinion.

And then there’s the ribbing. All the crocheted hat patterns either had no ribbing, or you made a separate white back/front loop only crochet strip, and then pick up stitches in red, working the hat from the bottom up. Oh heck no, I want a pattern that I can just stop when it’s the right size for the recipient’s head, and then start the awesome front/back post crochet ribbing that we’ve been doing for years.

Well, OK, I’ve made up far more difficult patterns, right? Well, it was super easy to figure out!

Gotta deliver ’em all!


~ I do the Pokeball pompom first, and then attach it after I’ve done a few rows of the hat. It’s really skinny in there, and it’s much easier that way.

~ For a regular Santa hat, don’t switch to black yarn, and work that row in red. You don’t need to make the circles to sew on. That’s it, everything else is the same!

~ You can change it up a bit; the one in the example uses sparkly yarn for the white. You can use fuzzy/eyelash yarn for the white, and if you’re not making a Pokeball, you can make a regular pompom to tie on.

~ This one is sized the same as my regular adult Jayne hat; my son’s head is about 22″, which I’ve discovered from my years of selling hats is the size that most people get. If you’re making a hat for a baby or smaller person, just stop when the increase makes it the right size, then work three rows even in red before switching to black or white. To make it bigger, just keep adding 1 hdc to the increase rows, and continue the inc row/ 2 even rows pattern until the opening is as wide as you need it to be. If you make one to go over ‘locs, I want a picture!


Pokeball Santa Hat

Gauge isn’t critical, you start at the tip top of the hat and work until it’s the size that you want. I used Caron Simply Soft yarn, and a size G (5mm) hook. Use whatever your favorite combination is.

sl st = slip stitch
= single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase, work two stitches into one stitch
dc = double crochet
dec = decrease, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull yarn through all hoop on the hook (one stitch made over two stitches of the previous row)
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet
FO = fasten off
(I used to provide links to tutorials for stitches, but blogs and YouTube channels come & go. I know you guys know how to do a google search! I specify how I inc & dc, because there are different ways that people do it that can give a different look.)

I crocheted the example in a spiral, and hid the color changes behind the circle applique. If you don’t want to do that, at the end of each row, join with a slip stitch to the first st of the previous row, chain 2, then work the first stitch into the SAME stitch as the join.


1. Work 5 sc in magic/adjustable circle (5 sc)

2 – 3. One hdc in each st. (5 hdc)

4. Inc (2 hdc in same st) in each st around (10 hdc)

5 – 6. Work even 2 rows

7.  Work *hdc, inc* around (15 hdc) (Hdc in next st, inc in the next st, repeat 5x)

8 – 9. Work even  for 2 rows (15 hdc)

10. *2 hdc, inc* around (20 hdc)

11 – 12. Work even 2 rows

13. *3 hdc, inc* around (25 hdc)

14 – 15. Work even 2 rows

16. *4 hdc, inc* around (30 hdc)

17 – 18. Work even 2 rows

19. *5 hdc, in* around (35 hdc)

20 – 21. Work even 2 rows

22. *6 hdc, inc* around (40 hdc)

23 – 24. Work even 2 rows

25. *7 hdc, inc* around (45 hdc)

26 – 27. Work even 2 rows

28. *8 hdc, inc* around (50 hdc)

29 – 30. Work even 2 rows

25. *9 hdc, inc* around (55 hdc)

26 – 27. Work even 2 rows

28. *10 hdc, inc* around (60 hdc)

29 – 30. Work even 2 rows

31. *11 hdc, inc* around (65 hdc)

32 – 33. Work even 2 rows

34. *12 hdc, inc* around (70 hdc)

35 – 36. Work even 2 rows

37. *13 hdc, inc* around (75 hdc)

38 – 39. Work even 2 rows

40. *14 hdc, inc* around (80 hdc)

41 – 43. Work even 3 rows

Change to black
44. Work one row hdc even (80 hdc)

Change to white
45. Work 1 row hdc (80 hdc)

46. 1st row of Ribbing: work one fpdc in next st, one bpdc in next, repeat (80 dc)

47 – 50. Repeat row 46. Work fpdc into the previous row’s fpdc; same for bpdc.

Fasten off

You can work more or less rows of ribbing, depending on the size, and what looks good to you. If you’re using a fuzzy/eyelash yarn, you can just work plain hdc.

Circle applique for Pokeball hat

1 Sc 5 into magic/adjustable circle. Join w/sl st into the first sc, ch 1. When you start the next row, work the first stitch into the SAME st as the join.
2. Inc in ea st (10 sc) Join w/sl st into the first sc, ch 1
3. *sc, inc* around (15 sc) Join, ch 1
4. *2 sc, inc* around (20 sc)  Join, ch 1. Switch to black
5. *3 sc, inc* around (25 sc) Join. Sl st in next sc, FO

Place circle onto hat centered on the black row, whip stitch around the edge to sew in place.

Tie pompom onto hat (if you haven’t already), weave in ends.



Small and Medium Sizes Only
Start in Red.

1: Work 6 sc in circle. Leave a long enough tail to tie to hat.
2: Inc in each st around (12 sc)
3: *1 sc in next st, inc* around (18 sc)
4: *2 sc in next st, inc* around (24 sc) Switch to black
5:  Sc in each st around (24 sc)
6: *Sc in each of next 2 sts, dec* around (18 sc)
Begin to stuff piece. Continue to stuff as work progresses.
7: *Sc in each of next st, dec* around (18 sc)
8: Dec around (6 sc) FO leaving a long tail. Thread tail through rem sts and pull to gather.

Large Size Only

1: Work 6 sc in circle. Leave a long enough tail to tie to hat.
2: Inc in each st around (12 sc)
3: *1 sc in next sc, inc* around (18 sc)
4: *2 sc, inc* around (24 sc)
5: *3 sc, inc* around (30 sc)
6: *4 sc, inc* around (36 sc)
7-8: Sc in each st around. For Pokeball, work row 8 in Black, then change to white.
9: *4 sc, dec* (30 sc)
10: *3 sc, dec* (24 sc)
Begin to stuff piece. Continue to stuff as work progresses.
11: *2 sc, dec (18 sc)
12: *1 sc, dec (12 sc)
13: Dec around (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread tail through rem sts and pull to gather.

Circle for front of Pokeball

1. Using white, sc 6 into a magic circle. Join with a sl st to first sc, ch 1
2. Switch to black, inc 6x (12 sts) Join. Sl st in next sc, FO, leaving a tail long enough to sew on to Pokeball.

Place circle onto ball centered on the black row, whip stitch around the edge to sew in place.

Finally made something!

I don’t talk about my depression a lot here, because this is my happy place, and I don’t whine about my troubles in public a lot anyway, which frustrates my friends because they want to be there for me. But I have it, and it’s been particularly sucky lately (for the last couple of years, tbh), and it tends to steal my creative mojo.

However, when your son is going to a Kingdom Hearts meetup at an anime convention, he needs something to wear! I mean, he’s almost 30 now, but you’re never too old to get homemade hats from your mom, lol.

Ta da! Shadow hat!

I’m going to re-do it, though. I only put wire in the … antennae? Is that what they are? They drooped during the day while he was wearing it. I’m going add a wire headband or something to hold it up.

I might be vending at a Harry Potter themed event coming soon, fingers crossed!


Phoenix Comic Fest and Holding Hands with Tim Curry

“WHAT” I hear you say? I KNOW! If I didn’t have photographic proof, I wouldn’t believe it myself!


Unfortunately, my scanner is not doing it’s job, so I had to take a picture of the picture.

I can’t afford such photo ops at cons, of course, let alone the “Tim Curry Experience” where you get to spend time interacting with him, rather than just hustling you in & out just long enough for a picuture. (Although, while I was manuvering my wheelchair, I did get to tell Ming-Na Wen that I’ve been a fan of hers since “ER”, lol).


My roommate makes bank, though, and always gets a lot of photo ops. Unfortunately, his mom fell on Friday night and ended up in the hospital. He drove down to the city where they live, a couple of hours away from Phoenix. I was talking to him while he packed, and wrapping a scarf for his mom; at midnight he handed me his VIP tags and photo op reciepts. I could have cried … from happiness, and guilt because I was so happy while his mom was waiting for surgery. He didn’t want all this to go to waste, though, which is a good point.

He also knows that I was one of those people for whom “The Rocky Horror Picture Show” meant a lot to. Even if you’re not gay or any flavor of queer, back in the 70’s if you were the slightest bit weird, you were an outcast. “Don’t dream it, be it” is always good advice!

He also knows how obsessed I am with “Agents of SHIELD”. I texted Tom to let him know that Ms. Wen is even hotter in person, lol, because I’m kind of a bitch, lol.

Anyway … after I grabbed Mr. Curry by the hand and he didn’t mind, I just started blathering all over him. When I first wheeled in, he said “We’re twins!” I nearly died of happiness right then. I told him what year I saw Rocky, and how many times I had to re-buy his album “Read My Lips” because friends & roommates kept stealing it (“Totally worth it, though”). He asked me what I do, and what my URL is. Then I was even CLOSER to dying of happiness! And since this blog is where my URL takes you, you should wave in case he actually checks it out! (ok, dead now)

I didn’t wear any of the hats or other things I’ve made, but I do appreciate others’ cosplay. I only took a selfie with one of them, though.



One thing I am diligently working on is the pictures for the HP scarf tutorial that I promised to add to that post … last Phoenix Comicon. Sorry. I’ve been busy, I promise! Look!


And now you’ll have to excuse me while I go and moon over my Tim Curry picture some more…



For my Phoenix Comicon panel: HP House Scarves Pattern

I know what you’re thinking – yeah, that’s all we need, yet another pattern. Aren’t there a billion of them already? Yes, yes there are, and they all conflict.

Most long-time Potter crafters consider Lauren Kent’s 2003/2004 patterns to be the definitive pattern, but Atypically Knit has been offline for a very long time. The patterns themselves survive on the Leaky Cauldron site, but not the extensive notes before and after the patterns, which include width & length measurements, as well as about how wide the stripes should be, which are important if you’re using a different yarn or needle size – and since the yarn she used is now discontinued, we all are! Her Ravelry page mentions that they’re in the book Charmed Knits, but I’ve never read it, so I don’t know how thorough they are in there.

And fortunately she did list those sizes, because my gauge is a lot different than hers – so my row count is different as well. If you’re doing a scarf for the first movie and your stripe is just over 3″ but your number of rows are different than what’s listed here, make a note of it and change colors!

(I’m also just noticing that this is only the third post I’ve done since the last Phoenix Comicon – I didn’t blog at all about Keen Halloween! I guess since I post a lot on Facebook, I just forget about this place, lol)

However, this actually IS a brand-new pattern. I found an HP bookmark that was knit using the double-sided knit technique, and I liked it so much that I went in search of a pattern for a full-sized double-sided scarf. There were none! Just the regular knit in the round tubes.

I also decided that it was way past time that the stripe patterns for both versions should be in the same place. Right?

Getting the right colors is a huge job as well. Using the lists from several different websites plus all the experimentation I’ve done myself over the years, I know have a fairly comprehensive list. The scarf colors in the first two movies are much brighter and cheerier than in all the clothes starting with PoA, which makes sense because the mood of the whole series takes a turn for the dark at that point. Or “moody” as Kent put it, which is also fitting.

(SS/CoS) Main color (MC): Red Heart Classic Cardinal #917,
Secondary color (SC): Red Heart Classic Golden Yellow #1270
(PoA+) MC: Red Heart Super Saver Burgundy #376, SC: Red Heart SS Gold #321

Ravenclaw: (all the rest of the yarns are RH Super Saver)
– Book- MC: Blue #886, SC: Pumpkin #254
– Movie- (SS/CoA) MC: Soft Navy #387, SC: Light Gray #41
(PoA+) MC: Windsor Blue #380, SC: Light Gray #41

(SS/CoS) MC: Bright Yellow #324, SC: Black #312
(PoA+) MC: Gold #321, SC: Black #312

(SS/CoS) MC: Paddy Green #368 , SC: Light Gray #41
(PoA+) MC: Hunter Green #389, SC: Light Gray #41

MC: Blue #886, SC: Burgundy #376



If you look around at cosplay pics & shops, people mostly use the PoA colors no matter which stripe pattern. It’s what we spent most of the movies looking at, and there are fans out there crafting that weren’t alive when there were no movies at all, just color illustrations of the House crests. It’s your costume/cosplay, you pick what you like!

Before we get to the actual patterns, here are the measurements:
SS/CoA – about 65-70″ long and about 7-8″ wide
Stripes a bit more than 3″ long

PoA+ Scarf should be about 9″ wide and possibly 85″ long
No measurements on the width of the stripes, so I just stuck with the number of rows. There are only three, and it doesn’t appear to make much of a difference in my example.

Here’s my gauge. I usually suggest doing a swatch in the stitch pattern at least 10 sts by 10 rows, just to see how close yours matches up. You don’t necessarily have to make any pattern adjustments right away, it’s just something to be aware of as you go.

Three (visible on one side) sts per inch
Four (visible) rows per inch

That “visible” thing will make sense later, trust me. 😉

And now, we knit!


Wizarding World School Scarf Patterns



Worsted weight yarn in two colors of your choice; the main color (MC) and the secondary color (SC)
Knitting needles, size 8 (5.00 mm)
Yarn needle for weaving in ends.

St(s) = stitch(es)
Sl st = slip stitch
Sl st Purl-wise = Insert needle into st as if to purl; without yarning over, move the st from the left needle to the right

Original Movie Design Color Blocks

Used in the movies “Sorcerer’s Stone” and “Chamber of Secrets”

Cast on 48 sts with MC

Row 1: Knit 1, *knit 1, sl st purl-wise*, repeat to the last st in row, knit 1.
Row 2: Sl st, *knit 1, sl st purl-wise*, repeat to the last st in row, knit 1.

Repeat Row 2 for a total of 26 rows (13 “rounds”)

You are basically knitting half the stitches in the row on one pass, then turning the work and knitting the stitches that you slipped before. Two rows equals one “round”.  Always change colors on the side that your cast-on “tail” is at (or use a stitch marker) so that your stripes are even.

I’m not good at counting rows as I go. I own row counters, but I forget to change the numbers and so I end up having to count them on the work anyway. In double-sided knitting, you’ll be able to see half the number of rows on each side. So, if you’ve knit 26 rows, you be able to look at either side, and when you count the rows, you’ll see 13. That’s why I refer to them as rounds … you’re still knitting a tube, but one with nice, defined sl st edges, and ends that you don’t have to sew shut. No need to worry about twisting the scarf as you’re doing the finishing!

Row 27: Change to SC. Continue to repeat Row 2, changing colors every 26 rows/13 rounds, until you have 19 stripes; 10 MC and 9 SC, beginning and ending with MC. Bind off.

Finishing: Weave in yarn ends. For fringe, you’ll have eleven tassels: six MC and five SC, again with MC fringe on both edges.
Tassel: Take 7 pieces of yarn and while holding them all together, fold them in half . Push the crochet hook through both thicknesses of scarf in the first row of knitting at one end, loop the folded ends of the yarn around the hook, and pull the yarn loops halfway through. Using the hook or your fingers, pull the cut yarn ends through the loop end, then tighten the tassel. I find it’s easier to do the middle SC tassel first, then the MC end tassels, and eye the rest.
After attaching all the tassels, lay end of scarf flat, and trim the edges of the fringe so it is even.

And that’s it! Now you’re showing your true colors!

OK, and now for the other stripe pattern.


Trapped Bar Stripe Design Pattern

Used in the rest of the Harry Potter movies starting with “Prisoner of Azkaban”

Cast on 56 sts with MC

Row 1: Knit 1, *knit 1, sl st purl-wise*, repeat to the last st in row, knit 1.
Row 2: Sl st, *knit 1, sl st purl-wise*, repeat to the last st in row, knit 1.

Repeat Row 2 for a total of 50 rows/25 “rounds” (until you can count 25 rows on a side)

[for a more complete explanation of the knitting, see first scarf instructions]

Change to SC. Follow this striping pattern:
–  6 rows/ 3 rounds of SC
–  10 rows / 5 rounds of MC
–  6 rows/ 3 rounds of SC

Change back to MC, knit another 25 rounds. Repeat stripes for a total of 14 trapped bars. Bind off.

Finishing: Weave in all ends. Add fringe.
cut approximately 120 8″ pieces of MC yarn. Take 3 pieces of yarn and while holding them all together, fold them in half . Push the crochet hook through both thicknesses of scarf in the first row of knitting at one end, loop the folded ends of the yarn around the hook, and pull the yarn loops halfway through. Using the hook or your fingers, pull the cut yarn ends through the loop end, then tighten the tassel. Place one every two stitches across the both ends of the scarf.
After attaching all the tassels, lay end of scarf flat, and trim the edges of the fringe so it is even.


There you go! I’m showing scarf swatches at the convention panel; I’ll upload pictures for the rest of you when I get the scarves finished.



New Pattern in my Etsy Store

Hi there! It’s been a crazy, crazy, crazy six months or so, with two vending dates tossed in the middle of it, at a teacher friend’s school and at Keen Halloween. Holiday orders, after holiday “buying the stuff I didn’t get for the holiday” orders, getting my autistic son settled in at his new Amazon warehouse job, a new day job for me — crazy!

At my table at Phoenix Comicon this year, I’ll be featuring printed patterns as well as finished items to buy. I won’t have too many complicated expensive items, but I will have a photo album with examples of all my custom work in case people are interested in something for the future.

You don’t have to wait, though – here’s the pattern for my adorable little Splatoon-inspired squid finger puppets! The instructions are rather short, so I also included instructions for some ninja finger puppets, which are very simple, but having a pattern saves you from the trial & error of figuring it out yourself!

Repeat Customers Are Amazing!

So, I’m busy gearing up for Keen Halloween, and I get a message from a customer. “Oh no,” I wonder, always thinking the worst, “did the pompom fall apart?” As I was clicking to read, I was already calculating in my head if I had the yarn left to fix it (I do that for people).

But no – she wanted to buy more hats! It was the lady who saw the Martha tam at Phoenix Comicon, and then contacted me through my Etsy store to see if I’d sold it yet. I had not, so it was hers! She didn’t even realize that it was a cosplay piece, she just loved the hat.

So now, some lucky person is going to get one (in a different color) as a gift! And her child absolutely needs a Rainbow Dash hat, and who am I to refuse such a request. 🙂

If you want to make one yourself, the pattern is listed for free on the Midnight Designs site (there’s also a link to the pattern on her Ravelry). I used the Wool-ease yarn and hook size suggested, and it’s so soft and gorgeous. You definitely don’t need to be a Doctor Who fan to love it!


Of course, this means I have to put my skulls on hold for a bit, but I promise to post them as soon as I can.



Reblocking a cheap hat

I loves me some Agent Carter!!!

I’ve always loved the clothes of the 1940’s anyway, and already have a bunch of dress & pants sewing patterns anyway.

Stetson has re-released the classic red Aviatrix hat that they use on the show, but since it’s made with a fine, classy wool felt, I can’t wear it. I’m not just “eeewww it’s itchy” allergic, it’s more like “oh dang, hives” allergic (and it’s not the lanolin, either, so using super-wash merino or alpaca doesn’t help. Trust me, I spent money experimenting with different yarns. Also, I’m not allergic to lotions that contain lanolin).

So, I finally found an acrylic hat from one of those inexpensive Chinese sites that had the correct size brim. So many hats have the short trilby style look rather than the full fedora!

I was thrilled when it got there! To keep the shipping inexpensive as well, it was shipped rolled up in a plastic envelope. I knew that hats could be re-blocked, but I’d never done it before, so it made me nervous.

To the googles!! The first few sites that I read were very complicated, and used a garment steamer, which I don’t have. Thank goodness I finally found a great tutorial from someone who used a steam iron! She starts right from scratch, so if I ever feel like doing that, now I know how, lol.

trying to keep the flipped-up part in place as it dries
trying to keep the flipped-up part in place as it dries

I’m ridiculously excited about how it’s coming out. I steam the crap out of the top parts until they’re hot, then smooth out the wrinkles with my fingers. It’s working out better than I expected! For the brim, I just ironed it flat, then curled up the brim with my hands. I was blowing on it to cool it down, but then decided to set it down until it dried out. Now, to figure out the best way to form the flipped-down side. 🙂

And yes, if it works well enough, they’ll be in my Etsy store! Not real soon – it takes a while to get to me from overseas, lol.